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The Trans-European Alpine Route
Hike Across a Continent
(First Edition, Hardcover)
An entire continent of mountain scenery
packed into one book.
To the Mountains!
​
I've been travelling a lot lately. Since 2014 I've now hiked across the US - twice (and a half?), trekked across New Zealand, cycled along the coast of Australia, and recently walked across an entire continent. Why all the effort? Perhaps it's the allure of wild places, the simplicity and spontaneity of life on the road, or just because it's a cheap way to explore. Look around for videos, photos, and info related to thru hiking and adventure travel.
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![Day 9 - Misinchinka High Route
(Murray Range to Pine Pass)
My final night was another cold one, but the constant breeze while camped high on the ridge kindly kept the moisture at bay and I woke to a conveniently dry tent. As soon as the sun’s first rays hit the sides, everything warmed right up. I zipped open the door and enjoyed a beautiful breakfast view [2].Â
I was in no rush, savouring the perfect weather I had for this final day of the journey. Once packed, I climbed up to the high point above my camp and gazed back across the miles and miles of mountains I'd passed through [3]. Meanwhile, north of me lay the final climb of the route [4]. I dropped down, then started zigzagging up the slopes of grass and rock, eventually reaching the peak where I found a nice cairn [1]. This peak would be the natural target for hikers climbing up from Pine Pass, perhaps before exploring more of the Murray Range as well.Â
I began descending west, looking for the Murray Range Trail. Far below lay Azouzetta Lake [5], skirted by HWY 97 where I could occasionally see the miniature form of a car or truck zipping by. The path became distinct as I dropped below treeline, shooting straight down a gully. Suddenly I saw something I hadn’t seen in 8 days - people. A couple was headed up the trail for a day hike, but was quite surprised to see me since theirs was the only vehicle at the trailhead. We chatted for a few minutes and I explained my trip, which resulted in an offer to drive me to the nearby town of Mackenzie when they returned from their hike later in the afternoon. From Mackenzie I would be able to catch a daily shuttle to Prince George where I already had a flight scheduled. I graciously accepted, knowing I’d be perfectly happy relaxing at the cafe for a few hours. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462699289_519723260909731_7991942578225074991_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=J16V5p0lzSQQ7kNvgHS94ij&_nc_oc=Adj4UrpfLKrhg3on_qn3SMe41_S0vQ4HjL4mUWKeEWZtx-0FAAteckrSyweQJ6ZyEPI&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYBCVRsAecHwkfAhHFIY75dRro_Zme2nOU66QnVCJld0Jw&oe=67B53252)
![Day 9 - Misinchinka High Route
(Murray Range to Pine Pass)
My final night was another cold one, but the constant breeze while camped high on the ridge kindly kept the moisture at bay and I woke to a conveniently dry tent. As soon as the sun’s first rays hit the sides, everything warmed right up. I zipped open the door and enjoyed a beautiful breakfast view [2].Â
I was in no rush, savouring the perfect weather I had for this final day of the journey. Once packed, I climbed up to the high point above my camp and gazed back across the miles and miles of mountains I'd passed through [3]. Meanwhile, north of me lay the final climb of the route [4]. I dropped down, then started zigzagging up the slopes of grass and rock, eventually reaching the peak where I found a nice cairn [1]. This peak would be the natural target for hikers climbing up from Pine Pass, perhaps before exploring more of the Murray Range as well.Â
I began descending west, looking for the Murray Range Trail. Far below lay Azouzetta Lake [5], skirted by HWY 97 where I could occasionally see the miniature form of a car or truck zipping by. The path became distinct as I dropped below treeline, shooting straight down a gully. Suddenly I saw something I hadn’t seen in 8 days - people. A couple was headed up the trail for a day hike, but was quite surprised to see me since theirs was the only vehicle at the trailhead. We chatted for a few minutes and I explained my trip, which resulted in an offer to drive me to the nearby town of Mackenzie when they returned from their hike later in the afternoon. From Mackenzie I would be able to catch a daily shuttle to Prince George where I already had a flight scheduled. I graciously accepted, knowing I’d be perfectly happy relaxing at the cafe for a few hours. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462699289_519723260909731_7991942578225074991_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=J16V5p0lzSQQ7kNvgHS94ij&_nc_oc=Adj4UrpfLKrhg3on_qn3SMe41_S0vQ4HjL4mUWKeEWZtx-0FAAteckrSyweQJ6ZyEPI&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYBCVRsAecHwkfAhHFIY75dRro_Zme2nOU66QnVCJld0Jw&oe=67B53252)
![Day 8 - Misinchinka High Route
(Unnamed lake E of Hunter E to Murray Range)
Well, it was a cold one last night. Just warm enough for a heavy dew to blanket the valley, and then plunged below freezing and froze everything in a hard frost. I had to force my zipper to move, and touching the shelter fabric created geometric patterns from the cracking of the thin coating of ice [2]. A hot breakfast was wonderful, but then came every hiker’s least favourite morning ritual ritual of pushing warm and dry feet into frozen socks and frozen shoes. At least the clear skies meant a sunny day was coming.
Once packed up, the walking was good up to a nearby saddle out of my upper valley camp, but the morning sun on the grass and flowers turned all the frost to icy cold water to further drench my lower half. Upon leaving camp I found a shredded piece of an old canvas tent [3] which I inspected and packed up to remove from the wilderness, wondering how long it had been there and how that tent had met its end. I was also reminded that I was getting closer and closer to civilization.
As I got higher the vegetation thinned [4] and I knew I only had a couple ridges to cross over before I was in the promised land, the alpine playground of the Murray Range [5, 6]. The ridges passed fine, with stiff climbs and steep descents but nothing too unmanageable. The meadows in between had good clearings and game trails to connect and I made good progress. By lunch I reached a lake and laid everything out on the rocky shore to dry in the sun [7, 8]. After passing by yet another mountain lake [9] IÂ climbed up onto the Murray Range at last and breathed a sigh of relief. All the big unknowns of the journey were now behind me, and all that lay ahead were open rolling ridges which I knew many people had travelled before [10, 11].Â
[continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462676136_1225374328509876_5450348939524360053_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=GdSNlDVJaE8Q7kNvgHGd8Cf&_nc_oc=AdhGPsWp7vVbOeag9Fkqy-en3ZsPzY6UW2chnRf-ewFaMnzeMqK9C-vRwXfei9ViVtI&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCAKANnfRxvf0vOSUuVlwjHt60qKhSG4pUUka8ZwKA8ng&oe=67B4FC52)
![Day 8 - Misinchinka High Route
(Unnamed lake E of Hunter E to Murray Range)
Well, it was a cold one last night. Just warm enough for a heavy dew to blanket the valley, and then plunged below freezing and froze everything in a hard frost. I had to force my zipper to move, and touching the shelter fabric created geometric patterns from the cracking of the thin coating of ice [2]. A hot breakfast was wonderful, but then came every hiker’s least favourite morning ritual ritual of pushing warm and dry feet into frozen socks and frozen shoes. At least the clear skies meant a sunny day was coming.
Once packed up, the walking was good up to a nearby saddle out of my upper valley camp, but the morning sun on the grass and flowers turned all the frost to icy cold water to further drench my lower half. Upon leaving camp I found a shredded piece of an old canvas tent [3] which I inspected and packed up to remove from the wilderness, wondering how long it had been there and how that tent had met its end. I was also reminded that I was getting closer and closer to civilization.
As I got higher the vegetation thinned [4] and I knew I only had a couple ridges to cross over before I was in the promised land, the alpine playground of the Murray Range [5, 6]. The ridges passed fine, with stiff climbs and steep descents but nothing too unmanageable. The meadows in between had good clearings and game trails to connect and I made good progress. By lunch I reached a lake and laid everything out on the rocky shore to dry in the sun [7, 8]. After passing by yet another mountain lake [9] IÂ climbed up onto the Murray Range at last and breathed a sigh of relief. All the big unknowns of the journey were now behind me, and all that lay ahead were open rolling ridges which I knew many people had travelled before [10, 11].Â
[continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462676136_1225374328509876_5450348939524360053_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=GdSNlDVJaE8Q7kNvgHGd8Cf&_nc_oc=AdhGPsWp7vVbOeag9Fkqy-en3ZsPzY6UW2chnRf-ewFaMnzeMqK9C-vRwXfei9ViVtI&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCAKANnfRxvf0vOSUuVlwjHt60qKhSG4pUUka8ZwKA8ng&oe=67B4FC52)
![Day 7 - Misinchinka High Route
(forest camp to unnamed lake E of Hunter)
The rain continued through the night but eased in the morning, so I packed up and left my tiny little dry world [2] and proceeded to get absolutely soaked as I trudged through the wet brush towards my final unknown climb. Due to the low clouds and misty rain I couldn’t get a good view of my target mountainside until I was nearly below it, but a section to my right had an interesting red patch streak and seemed like the terrain might be a bit more open. On a whim and a hope I headed for it, and was happy to find that the ground was incredibly sandy and loose, making for poor growing conditions. There were stunted trees, but I could weave through them easily enough and began my way up [3].Â
Unfortunately I pushed my luck a bit far and continued up into steeper terrain, which morphed into loose bare rock and sand. I stubbornly began scrambling and climbing, forcing myself into areas where mistakes or simple bad luck could have turned very bad. It was a dumb move. I could look across and see the even slopes where I would have liked to be [4], but either had to down climb or keep going. Eventually the grade eased and I returned to more stunted trees, which were slow and frustrating but would certainly stop a fall. Did I mention the rain had returned? [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462252405_3488616421443898_4105300671927877686_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=hOblc05Z6DwQ7kNvgHAjzwp&_nc_oc=AdgtuAopQbwir6vSZTMAZFke6sKxs-YAK97molXJQ5Geh64LEIFkuh6X691ixVyODiw&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYDGLsfn0ZvKbNVgexR5Sllremogm7OXj7D8U-58byVq3g&oe=67B5143F)
![Day 7 - Misinchinka High Route
(forest camp to unnamed lake E of Hunter)
The rain continued through the night but eased in the morning, so I packed up and left my tiny little dry world [2] and proceeded to get absolutely soaked as I trudged through the wet brush towards my final unknown climb. Due to the low clouds and misty rain I couldn’t get a good view of my target mountainside until I was nearly below it, but a section to my right had an interesting red patch streak and seemed like the terrain might be a bit more open. On a whim and a hope I headed for it, and was happy to find that the ground was incredibly sandy and loose, making for poor growing conditions. There were stunted trees, but I could weave through them easily enough and began my way up [3].Â
Unfortunately I pushed my luck a bit far and continued up into steeper terrain, which morphed into loose bare rock and sand. I stubbornly began scrambling and climbing, forcing myself into areas where mistakes or simple bad luck could have turned very bad. It was a dumb move. I could look across and see the even slopes where I would have liked to be [4], but either had to down climb or keep going. Eventually the grade eased and I returned to more stunted trees, which were slow and frustrating but would certainly stop a fall. Did I mention the rain had returned? [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462252405_3488616421443898_4105300671927877686_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=hOblc05Z6DwQ7kNvgHAjzwp&_nc_oc=AdgtuAopQbwir6vSZTMAZFke6sKxs-YAK97molXJQ5Geh64LEIFkuh6X691ixVyODiw&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYDGLsfn0ZvKbNVgexR5Sllremogm7OXj7D8U-58byVq3g&oe=67B5143F)
![Day 6 - Misinchinka High Route
(high Reynolds meadow to forest camp below Grant)
The weather forecast called for steady rain beginning mid-afternoon, so it was time to get moving. The morning walk out from the meadow went well and I rose up into open alpine territory [2], passing by several high lakes along the way [3]. Turning a corner, I could see the pass where I would have to decide between the high and low options I had mapped out [4]. Before reaching it, I passed along the banks of another lake which was filled by a small waterfall [5, 6]. If it were a warmer day, I would have likely have been drawn in for a cool shower.Â
I decided I had ample time to traverse the high route before the weather moved in, and made the steep climbed to the crest. I cairned the high point [1] and then approached the crux of the ridge – a saddle with steep approaches from each side [7]. The descent to the saddle was pretty sketchy, mostly due to the very loose rock [8]. There may be a better descent path beside the one I used, or perhaps a longer route bypassing this ridge is the answer. The far side of the saddle and the ridge that followed were much better [9, 10].
Eventually I reached the end and was forced to drop into the valley [11, 12]. My descent wasn’t great. Travel through the forest was slow, the uneven terrain constantly forcing me to turn, drop, climb, and then re-check my bearings. Then the rain began. Checking the time and my location, it was clear that there wouldn’t be any camping options once I started the big climb out of the valley, and without knowing how long that climb would take I decided to make camp immediately in the forest and call it a day. It was only 3:30, so a much shorter than usual, but I still had plenty of food and took the opportunity to rest up for the final few days of trail. I set up some rain water collection off the edges of my tarp since I hadn’t filled up before making camp, and spent the rest of the afternoon slowly pouring half-full ziplocs into my water bottles between short naps. I made dinner, stared at my maps some more, then drifted off to the cozy patter of raindrops while dry and warm under my shelter.
#thruhike](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462346400_568210505882595_1049092733332470813_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=sZ8TuNcjsEEQ7kNvgHZKPR9&_nc_oc=Adj5La45K8TaDd3i3hW6p2usaKszn-3heSK4jma598mmXQ6e1SzREHw21OoDBBYFw7s&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCLcN7dNrCItqSTliaIG5o5CbfBrzaKR9PwtpfwrnIhPQ&oe=67B53382)
![Day 6 - Misinchinka High Route
(high Reynolds meadow to forest camp below Grant)
The weather forecast called for steady rain beginning mid-afternoon, so it was time to get moving. The morning walk out from the meadow went well and I rose up into open alpine territory [2], passing by several high lakes along the way [3]. Turning a corner, I could see the pass where I would have to decide between the high and low options I had mapped out [4]. Before reaching it, I passed along the banks of another lake which was filled by a small waterfall [5, 6]. If it were a warmer day, I would have likely have been drawn in for a cool shower.Â
I decided I had ample time to traverse the high route before the weather moved in, and made the steep climbed to the crest. I cairned the high point [1] and then approached the crux of the ridge – a saddle with steep approaches from each side [7]. The descent to the saddle was pretty sketchy, mostly due to the very loose rock [8]. There may be a better descent path beside the one I used, or perhaps a longer route bypassing this ridge is the answer. The far side of the saddle and the ridge that followed were much better [9, 10].
Eventually I reached the end and was forced to drop into the valley [11, 12]. My descent wasn’t great. Travel through the forest was slow, the uneven terrain constantly forcing me to turn, drop, climb, and then re-check my bearings. Then the rain began. Checking the time and my location, it was clear that there wouldn’t be any camping options once I started the big climb out of the valley, and without knowing how long that climb would take I decided to make camp immediately in the forest and call it a day. It was only 3:30, so a much shorter than usual, but I still had plenty of food and took the opportunity to rest up for the final few days of trail. I set up some rain water collection off the edges of my tarp since I hadn’t filled up before making camp, and spent the rest of the afternoon slowly pouring half-full ziplocs into my water bottles between short naps. I made dinner, stared at my maps some more, then drifted off to the cozy patter of raindrops while dry and warm under my shelter.
#thruhike](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462346400_568210505882595_1049092733332470813_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=sZ8TuNcjsEEQ7kNvgHZKPR9&_nc_oc=Adj5La45K8TaDd3i3hW6p2usaKszn-3heSK4jma598mmXQ6e1SzREHw21OoDBBYFw7s&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCLcN7dNrCItqSTliaIG5o5CbfBrzaKR9PwtpfwrnIhPQ&oe=67B53382)
![Day 5 - Misinchinka High Route
(High meadow before Kinney to high Reynolds meadow)
Good news! I received a response on my inReach informing me that the fires causing all this smoke are quite far away from my location and the smoke should begin clearing in the coming days. Indeed, the sky was already looking more blue than yesterday as I finished my huckleberry-boosted breakfast [1] and packed up camp.Â
Unfortunately my notes from the morning’s travel describe it as ‘slow and violent’. I encountered all sorts of small bushes [2], super-bushes [3], and other slow greenery as I made my way through kilometres of unavoidable low elevation terrain [4].Â
I eventually reached the unofficial halfway marker the route, the recently completed Coastal GasLink Pipeline which crosses the mountains on its way to the pacific coast. Although I had mapped the pipeline corridor [5] as a possible bailout option, I was still on schedule and had no reason to linger.Â
Shortly after crossing the pipeline cut I began to climb steadily [6]. Eventually I reached a high ridge [7, 8], dropped steeply off it, and then climbed up Mt Kinney following goat trails over loose scree toward its broad peak [9]. At the top there was a rough group of jagged rocks giving the hint of a possible old cairn. Before the pipeline’s recent construction this would wave been one of the more remote named mountains of the area and I had been wondering if I might be the first to set foot on its peak. The rocks didn’t seem to give much indication either way, so I built them up i order to leave no doubt for the next visitor [10].
Although the light haze of smoke remained, I could see far enough today to visualize the route ahead [11]. Behind a small windbreak I matched the lines drawn on my maps to the ridges and valleys ahead as I broke off row after row of chocolate and began scooping from my second jar of peanut butter.Â
I spent the afternoon dropping steadily back into lower terrain, but enjoyed unexpectedly good travel all the way to the next ridge I needed to climb. However, once I got to the top my luck had run out. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462239039_2058477891259640_1904728471929316567_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=100&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=NoSS4CoGc1sQ7kNvgFi0tQY&_nc_oc=Adh4T8zahMsf3eNCD6AaCJCunpeZZXYTasrtDWXehbyTGNddarZQiGhoptxVo0wqXTc&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYDWYPd44Ceqc-yPEvcc9F3nYsaMsO8Gj6Po4OJ9VxxNyg&oe=67B50297)
![Day 5 - Misinchinka High Route
(High meadow before Kinney to high Reynolds meadow)
Good news! I received a response on my inReach informing me that the fires causing all this smoke are quite far away from my location and the smoke should begin clearing in the coming days. Indeed, the sky was already looking more blue than yesterday as I finished my huckleberry-boosted breakfast [1] and packed up camp.Â
Unfortunately my notes from the morning’s travel describe it as ‘slow and violent’. I encountered all sorts of small bushes [2], super-bushes [3], and other slow greenery as I made my way through kilometres of unavoidable low elevation terrain [4].Â
I eventually reached the unofficial halfway marker the route, the recently completed Coastal GasLink Pipeline which crosses the mountains on its way to the pacific coast. Although I had mapped the pipeline corridor [5] as a possible bailout option, I was still on schedule and had no reason to linger.Â
Shortly after crossing the pipeline cut I began to climb steadily [6]. Eventually I reached a high ridge [7, 8], dropped steeply off it, and then climbed up Mt Kinney following goat trails over loose scree toward its broad peak [9]. At the top there was a rough group of jagged rocks giving the hint of a possible old cairn. Before the pipeline’s recent construction this would wave been one of the more remote named mountains of the area and I had been wondering if I might be the first to set foot on its peak. The rocks didn’t seem to give much indication either way, so I built them up i order to leave no doubt for the next visitor [10].
Although the light haze of smoke remained, I could see far enough today to visualize the route ahead [11]. Behind a small windbreak I matched the lines drawn on my maps to the ridges and valleys ahead as I broke off row after row of chocolate and began scooping from my second jar of peanut butter.Â
I spent the afternoon dropping steadily back into lower terrain, but enjoyed unexpectedly good travel all the way to the next ridge I needed to climb. However, once I got to the top my luck had run out. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462239039_2058477891259640_1904728471929316567_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=100&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=NoSS4CoGc1sQ7kNvgFi0tQY&_nc_oc=Adh4T8zahMsf3eNCD6AaCJCunpeZZXYTasrtDWXehbyTGNddarZQiGhoptxVo0wqXTc&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYDWYPd44Ceqc-yPEvcc9F3nYsaMsO8Gj6Po4OJ9VxxNyg&oe=67B50297)
![Day 4 - Misinchinka High Route
(Dudzic bowl to high meadow before Kinney)
I woke to the smell of smoke and climbed out of my shelter into a grey world [2]. Whatever hopes I had for sweeping views along today’s high ridge walks were gone, and now I simply hoped that I wasn’t going to get myself into an area where the low visibility might actually cost me. I climbed up along the slopes of the Dudzic massif [3] and then gained the main ridge for a mile of ups and downs along its narrow rocky spine [1, 4, 5].
After my descent from the main ridge I was graced with another short stretch of open terrain [6] before I was forced to drop and enter some slow terrain for the rest of the morning [7]. Thankfully, the time of year meant that I had virtually unlimited huckleberries when making my way through these lower elevations [8]. As I climbed up to the low pass ahead [9], I decided I would stop for lunch at the top. When I reached the top however and gave a quick call to ensure the coast was clear, I was instead met with loud and heavy breathing coming from behind a nearby copse of trees to my side. I unholstered my bear spray, turned to face the trees, and kept talking, making my way across the clearing and beginning the descent into the next valley. No lunch break quite yet. There’s no doubt in my mind that it was another grizzly, just letting me know that it indeed wanted me to keep moving along.
I waited until I had dropped all the way into the head of the next valley for my break, and took the opportunity to scout the route ahead as much as the smoke would allow [9]. I had recently changed my plan for this area, abandoning the simplest route through the valley bottom for a line which climbed up the flowery eastern slopes [10], over a couple ridges [11] and crossed some higher side valleys [12, 13]. More elevation gain and awkward angled side hilling, but still likely faster than the thick forests and undergrowth below. Everything went incredibly well, and despite the smoke I was moving faster than I had even hoped for. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462160355_1887103738440038_3975365059288072762_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=9-czwmz7BDIQ7kNvgFibxkp&_nc_oc=AdgvjPxuBfjGsFKVz7EKSr-Fc4qNA48ryXFgYxYn8B0ZSVRuCRnsLGugB1FOAiXsYXA&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYD_KVGgK__NBqn4obsBmNYDutmI7qtCAKgUNkOGWj9d5g&oe=67B51DF7)
![Day 4 - Misinchinka High Route
(Dudzic bowl to high meadow before Kinney)
I woke to the smell of smoke and climbed out of my shelter into a grey world [2]. Whatever hopes I had for sweeping views along today’s high ridge walks were gone, and now I simply hoped that I wasn’t going to get myself into an area where the low visibility might actually cost me. I climbed up along the slopes of the Dudzic massif [3] and then gained the main ridge for a mile of ups and downs along its narrow rocky spine [1, 4, 5].
After my descent from the main ridge I was graced with another short stretch of open terrain [6] before I was forced to drop and enter some slow terrain for the rest of the morning [7]. Thankfully, the time of year meant that I had virtually unlimited huckleberries when making my way through these lower elevations [8]. As I climbed up to the low pass ahead [9], I decided I would stop for lunch at the top. When I reached the top however and gave a quick call to ensure the coast was clear, I was instead met with loud and heavy breathing coming from behind a nearby copse of trees to my side. I unholstered my bear spray, turned to face the trees, and kept talking, making my way across the clearing and beginning the descent into the next valley. No lunch break quite yet. There’s no doubt in my mind that it was another grizzly, just letting me know that it indeed wanted me to keep moving along.
I waited until I had dropped all the way into the head of the next valley for my break, and took the opportunity to scout the route ahead as much as the smoke would allow [9]. I had recently changed my plan for this area, abandoning the simplest route through the valley bottom for a line which climbed up the flowery eastern slopes [10], over a couple ridges [11] and crossed some higher side valleys [12, 13]. More elevation gain and awkward angled side hilling, but still likely faster than the thick forests and undergrowth below. Everything went incredibly well, and despite the smoke I was moving faster than I had even hoped for. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/462160355_1887103738440038_3975365059288072762_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=9-czwmz7BDIQ7kNvgFibxkp&_nc_oc=AdgvjPxuBfjGsFKVz7EKSr-Fc4qNA48ryXFgYxYn8B0ZSVRuCRnsLGugB1FOAiXsYXA&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYD_KVGgK__NBqn4obsBmNYDutmI7qtCAKgUNkOGWj9d5g&oe=67B51DF7)
![Day 3 - Misinchinka High Route
(unnamed lake between Sukunka/Whitford to Dudzic bowl)
I woke to frost on my tent, but if that’s the price I pay for clear skies then so be it.Â
The morning involved finishing my western diversion towards Whitford Peak and required climbing over some minor ridges and then an interesting ascent back and forth along some horizontal shelves, but unfortunately I have no pictures of any of that so I’ll move right along.
Once I had reached high enough, I surveyed the view ahead and weighed my options for which of my planned routes to take [1]. I decided I’d wrap around the mountain in order to save few hundred feet of climbing. I then came upon a beautiful clear spring in the middle of a meadow where I refilled my water bottle [2]. I followed the stream that flowed from it, winding among mossy rock gullies where the flow occassionally disappeared underground. It grew larger as it combined with other drainages and then entered a final wide meadow where I followed it to a much larger hole/cave where it gurgled down out of sight for good [3]. It was clear from the shape of the meadow that when the stream is carrying more water than cave is unable to drain, the banks swell and create a lake out of the meadow (which still contained a drying pond on the far side). I paused here for lunch. Geology is neat.Â
Looking across the dry lakebed/meadow I planned my line up the far slopes [4, 5], and enjoyed hours of open travel as I traveled up and around a shoulder [6, 7], then down into a small bowl and back up the far side [8].Â
The rest of my terrain for the day soon became visible [9], which would be some relatively flat open forests followed by a descent into a valley and then the first of the big scary climbs I had planned into the route. The worry wasn’t for their steepness or height, but for how overgrown the terrain would likely be. As I approached the climb I identified the gully which had seemed the best from my maps and satellite imagery, and indeed it seemed to appear the most open from afar [10]. [Continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/461965409_517994137531975_1022069055934234998_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=OOtND18Ddk4Q7kNvgEklFEJ&_nc_oc=AdhaX4ZcYHFmwpxweMvRsvI7kNOCOKDKRzFYE940kbYqBEUHvJ9NkMbXXMQ5gicdX2c&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYBKPGg7_c3IJaU_PerHbGCUkJ3XaEAxFUwNvoEns3fGtA&oe=67B5180D)
![Day 3 - Misinchinka High Route
(unnamed lake between Sukunka/Whitford to Dudzic bowl)
I woke to frost on my tent, but if that’s the price I pay for clear skies then so be it.Â
The morning involved finishing my western diversion towards Whitford Peak and required climbing over some minor ridges and then an interesting ascent back and forth along some horizontal shelves, but unfortunately I have no pictures of any of that so I’ll move right along.
Once I had reached high enough, I surveyed the view ahead and weighed my options for which of my planned routes to take [1]. I decided I’d wrap around the mountain in order to save few hundred feet of climbing. I then came upon a beautiful clear spring in the middle of a meadow where I refilled my water bottle [2]. I followed the stream that flowed from it, winding among mossy rock gullies where the flow occassionally disappeared underground. It grew larger as it combined with other drainages and then entered a final wide meadow where I followed it to a much larger hole/cave where it gurgled down out of sight for good [3]. It was clear from the shape of the meadow that when the stream is carrying more water than cave is unable to drain, the banks swell and create a lake out of the meadow (which still contained a drying pond on the far side). I paused here for lunch. Geology is neat.Â
Looking across the dry lakebed/meadow I planned my line up the far slopes [4, 5], and enjoyed hours of open travel as I traveled up and around a shoulder [6, 7], then down into a small bowl and back up the far side [8].Â
The rest of my terrain for the day soon became visible [9], which would be some relatively flat open forests followed by a descent into a valley and then the first of the big scary climbs I had planned into the route. The worry wasn’t for their steepness or height, but for how overgrown the terrain would likely be. As I approached the climb I identified the gully which had seemed the best from my maps and satellite imagery, and indeed it seemed to appear the most open from afar [10]. [Continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/461965409_517994137531975_1022069055934234998_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=OOtND18Ddk4Q7kNvgEklFEJ&_nc_oc=AdhaX4ZcYHFmwpxweMvRsvI7kNOCOKDKRzFYE940kbYqBEUHvJ9NkMbXXMQ5gicdX2c&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYBKPGg7_c3IJaU_PerHbGCUkJ3XaEAxFUwNvoEns3fGtA&oe=67B5180D)
![Day 2 - Misinchinka High Route
(low pass between Myhon/Sukunka to unnamed lake between Sukunka/Whitford)
My first task for the day was finding a way up to higher elevations on the Sukunka massif. Looking up from my camp, the immediate slopes were very steep and overgrown, so I stuck with my original plan to circle around and thread the line below the steeper cliffs and forested valley [1]. Thankfully I found great game trails [2] and some open meadows [3] which made for even faster travel than I had originally expected. As I climbed up the head of the valley I spotted something blue, shiny, and out of place [4]. It was a deflated helium balloon, which always seem to find their final resting place as litter. I shook my head. However as I picked it up and began reading the scrawled message on its side, written by a grieving mother to her lost child, my mindset quickly shifted from complaining about the actions of others to the awareness that I have very little to complain about. I tucked it into a pocket and continued on.
The climb shifted to open alpine terrain [5] and then reached a break in the cliffs where it was possible to weave up through the rocks [6] and access the upper shelf. I immediately reached a large alpine lake, wrapped around it, and took a lunch and gear drying break on the far side beside a cascading stream [7].
I had mapped out a lower and a higher route for this area, and with bluebird skies I was glad to have the opportunity to climb up to the main ridge behind the lake [8,9]. The ridge is very welcoming for walking – along the 5 mile section I hiked there was only ~1500 ft of gain (certainly not flat, but definitely the fastest path through here). The terrain is open and the views were wide [10, 11]. Along the way I also glanced down to the lower shelf which contained some inviting lakes and would still make for a scenic route during questionable weather [12].
[Continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/461858840_509406495283740_7010146969611717194_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=Cz3xOIH2a9MQ7kNvgGLv4fN&_nc_oc=Adi3EC8ilaQki2SiY4PyCUthmsxTCKr2UtJEI4_veSxxx7h3Q5Cw37yEi0VXCzsdgaU&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYDjKkVLtoKlICGZnUncDkvqYLZUC94DmnHJGbfIoUs1zg&oe=67B51819)
![Day 2 - Misinchinka High Route
(low pass between Myhon/Sukunka to unnamed lake between Sukunka/Whitford)
My first task for the day was finding a way up to higher elevations on the Sukunka massif. Looking up from my camp, the immediate slopes were very steep and overgrown, so I stuck with my original plan to circle around and thread the line below the steeper cliffs and forested valley [1]. Thankfully I found great game trails [2] and some open meadows [3] which made for even faster travel than I had originally expected. As I climbed up the head of the valley I spotted something blue, shiny, and out of place [4]. It was a deflated helium balloon, which always seem to find their final resting place as litter. I shook my head. However as I picked it up and began reading the scrawled message on its side, written by a grieving mother to her lost child, my mindset quickly shifted from complaining about the actions of others to the awareness that I have very little to complain about. I tucked it into a pocket and continued on.
The climb shifted to open alpine terrain [5] and then reached a break in the cliffs where it was possible to weave up through the rocks [6] and access the upper shelf. I immediately reached a large alpine lake, wrapped around it, and took a lunch and gear drying break on the far side beside a cascading stream [7].
I had mapped out a lower and a higher route for this area, and with bluebird skies I was glad to have the opportunity to climb up to the main ridge behind the lake [8,9]. The ridge is very welcoming for walking – along the 5 mile section I hiked there was only ~1500 ft of gain (certainly not flat, but definitely the fastest path through here). The terrain is open and the views were wide [10, 11]. Along the way I also glanced down to the lower shelf which contained some inviting lakes and would still make for a scenic route during questionable weather [12].
[Continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/461858840_509406495283740_7010146969611717194_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=Cz3xOIH2a9MQ7kNvgGLv4fN&_nc_oc=Adi3EC8ilaQki2SiY4PyCUthmsxTCKr2UtJEI4_veSxxx7h3Q5Cw37yEi0VXCzsdgaU&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYDjKkVLtoKlICGZnUncDkvqYLZUC94DmnHJGbfIoUs1zg&oe=67B51819)
![Day 1 - Misinchinka High Route
(Imperial Creek road to low pass between Myhon/Sukunka)
After resupplying in Tumbler Ridge, I was fortunate to have a ride back to Monkman Provincial Park. We stopped briefly at Kinuseo Falls and then continued a bit further north, now outside of the park, along Imperial Creek forest road. The road remains in fairly good condition all things considered, but a 4x4 is definitely recommended and the roadside bushes are getting pretty close [1]. At the end of the road I shouldered my pack, thanked my ride and set off. For the next 100 miles of wilderness I didn’t expect to see another human.
The first task was getting up out of the forests and into more open alpine terrain (basically the story of the entire trip). I made good time up through these first few kilometres and then began meadow hopping westward [2]. Occasionally the meadows opened right up for some nice views of the surrounding peaks, most of them unnamed [3]. Eventually I reached a nice lake seated below a steep cliff face where I stopped for lunch [4]. I didn't think to continue making bear noise while eating lunch since I wasn't moving and wasn't concerned about coming upon a bear (lesson about to be learned).
As I stood up preparing to leave I glanced up the game trail in the direction I would be headed and met eyes with the head of a grizzly looking my way (perhaps 100 ft away?). Immediately its head dropped and it began running down the trail towards me. As quickly as I could I bent down, grabbed my bear spray from my pack, popped the safety and stood back up and started yelling at the bear (HEY, THAT'S FAR ENOUGH, etc). It had already closed to ~40 ft and then stopped its charge (any closer and I was about to spray). I kept speaking, and it tried a couple slow steps towards me but I kept telling it loudly that I wasn't happy with that so it switched to slowly circling around me. The wind was at my back but at a bit of an angle, and it didn't have to circle far to get directly downwind of me. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/461773466_494844383527020_2931464306486953605_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=WZqx7Oz_v1QQ7kNvgHhTygB&_nc_oc=Adhl7nqHUWIW3v2anHuQDnjS0gpw92ywZHNtD9fKWNxif6igeMBkfIDHzoQeusrXA2o&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCAAlMtBdiTwfKyBfxrRD7kArP76GeYtkL2pBGpf3Kwbw&oe=67B53058)
![Day 1 - Misinchinka High Route
(Imperial Creek road to low pass between Myhon/Sukunka)
After resupplying in Tumbler Ridge, I was fortunate to have a ride back to Monkman Provincial Park. We stopped briefly at Kinuseo Falls and then continued a bit further north, now outside of the park, along Imperial Creek forest road. The road remains in fairly good condition all things considered, but a 4x4 is definitely recommended and the roadside bushes are getting pretty close [1]. At the end of the road I shouldered my pack, thanked my ride and set off. For the next 100 miles of wilderness I didn’t expect to see another human.
The first task was getting up out of the forests and into more open alpine terrain (basically the story of the entire trip). I made good time up through these first few kilometres and then began meadow hopping westward [2]. Occasionally the meadows opened right up for some nice views of the surrounding peaks, most of them unnamed [3]. Eventually I reached a nice lake seated below a steep cliff face where I stopped for lunch [4]. I didn't think to continue making bear noise while eating lunch since I wasn't moving and wasn't concerned about coming upon a bear (lesson about to be learned).
As I stood up preparing to leave I glanced up the game trail in the direction I would be headed and met eyes with the head of a grizzly looking my way (perhaps 100 ft away?). Immediately its head dropped and it began running down the trail towards me. As quickly as I could I bent down, grabbed my bear spray from my pack, popped the safety and stood back up and started yelling at the bear (HEY, THAT'S FAR ENOUGH, etc). It had already closed to ~40 ft and then stopped its charge (any closer and I was about to spray). I kept speaking, and it tried a couple slow steps towards me but I kept telling it loudly that I wasn't happy with that so it switched to slowly circling around me. The wind was at my back but at a bit of an angle, and it didn't have to circle far to get directly downwind of me. [continued in comments]](https://scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/461773466_494844383527020_2931464306486953605_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=WZqx7Oz_v1QQ7kNvgHhTygB&_nc_oc=Adhl7nqHUWIW3v2anHuQDnjS0gpw92ywZHNtD9fKWNxif6igeMBkfIDHzoQeusrXA2o&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-2.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCAAlMtBdiTwfKyBfxrRD7kArP76GeYtkL2pBGpf3Kwbw&oe=67B53058)
































![Hayduke Day 19 || Hurricane Wash Trailhead to Monday Canyon
After packing up from my tent pad behind the outfitters I walked to the edge of town and stuck out my thumb. Plenty of traffic but no bites for half an hour. Finally a friendly woman pulled over to say she wasn't going to far along the highway, but could take me as far as [the exact road I needed to get to]. So happily I hopped in and got to the trailhead in one shot. She even gave me a beer from her cooler for the trail! People are the best.
Walking out towards the imposing wall of Fiftymile Mountain, I was glad I'd be climbing up on established jeep roads and trails. After gaining 2600 ft I crested the top of the plateau and looked back down to the valley floor below. I could see the trailhead for Hurricane Wash, leading back to Coyote Gulch, the maze of canyons surrounding the Escalante, and Waterpocket Fold and then the Henrys in the far background.
I took a small detour from the trail to see the Window Wind Arch, a small natural arch that sits atop the cliff edge at a perfect lookout spot. It was also a perfect lunch and (still cold!) beer spot. There were names carved into the underside and walls of the arch, and while I'm not a fan of carving graffiti into natural monuments I do have to admit it was cool to see records from 100+ years ago. The oldest I saw was from 1888.
Next I began walking through chaparral to a spring where I maxed out my water capacity at 7.2 L to last me the next 30 miles of dry terrain. Shortly afterwards I found a foam sleeping pad in the bush, almost certainly from a former Hayduke hiker who had it plucked unknowingly from their pack by the thick brush. I grabbed it but had nowhere to carry it with my pack so full of food and water, so it stayed in one hand with my poles in the other. This made for some 'interesting' scrambling sections as I dropped into Monday Canyon and began navigating pour offs and boulder obstacles as large as cars and even houses. Eventually the light began to fade so I found a spot to camp, as scrambling down a remote canyon with my hands full in the dark somehow seems like a line too far.
#thruhike](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/385861858_856834215648360_4590450514179646655_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=_m8EB-1E4FkQ7kNvgHr1eRD&_nc_oc=Adi9jHaripR9AvE-t3vTAJIJnQJ0HojINcYMSXwWXWw3XDpck14-SH7oJfbaHczv-Jg&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCK5ZrnQXKQN965OedfwsxxD2vq7tF4XPbOvCsXPJGWFQ&oe=67B52283)
![Hayduke Day 19 || Hurricane Wash Trailhead to Monday Canyon
After packing up from my tent pad behind the outfitters I walked to the edge of town and stuck out my thumb. Plenty of traffic but no bites for half an hour. Finally a friendly woman pulled over to say she wasn't going to far along the highway, but could take me as far as [the exact road I needed to get to]. So happily I hopped in and got to the trailhead in one shot. She even gave me a beer from her cooler for the trail! People are the best.
Walking out towards the imposing wall of Fiftymile Mountain, I was glad I'd be climbing up on established jeep roads and trails. After gaining 2600 ft I crested the top of the plateau and looked back down to the valley floor below. I could see the trailhead for Hurricane Wash, leading back to Coyote Gulch, the maze of canyons surrounding the Escalante, and Waterpocket Fold and then the Henrys in the far background.
I took a small detour from the trail to see the Window Wind Arch, a small natural arch that sits atop the cliff edge at a perfect lookout spot. It was also a perfect lunch and (still cold!) beer spot. There were names carved into the underside and walls of the arch, and while I'm not a fan of carving graffiti into natural monuments I do have to admit it was cool to see records from 100+ years ago. The oldest I saw was from 1888.
Next I began walking through chaparral to a spring where I maxed out my water capacity at 7.2 L to last me the next 30 miles of dry terrain. Shortly afterwards I found a foam sleeping pad in the bush, almost certainly from a former Hayduke hiker who had it plucked unknowingly from their pack by the thick brush. I grabbed it but had nowhere to carry it with my pack so full of food and water, so it stayed in one hand with my poles in the other. This made for some 'interesting' scrambling sections as I dropped into Monday Canyon and began navigating pour offs and boulder obstacles as large as cars and even houses. Eventually the light began to fade so I found a spot to camp, as scrambling down a remote canyon with my hands full in the dark somehow seems like a line too far.
#thruhike](https://scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com/v/t51.29350-15/385861858_856834215648360_4590450514179646655_n.webp?stp=dst-jpg_e35_tt6&_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=18de74&_nc_ohc=_m8EB-1E4FkQ7kNvgHr1eRD&_nc_oc=Adi9jHaripR9AvE-t3vTAJIJnQJ0HojINcYMSXwWXWw3XDpck14-SH7oJfbaHczv-Jg&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.cdninstagram.com&edm=ANo9K5cEAAAA&_nc_gid=AoKtPlWK0vI38aLgpg1LEi0&oh=00_AYCK5ZrnQXKQN965OedfwsxxD2vq7tF4XPbOvCsXPJGWFQ&oe=67B52283)








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